Poppy the Bunny by Whimsical Yarn Creations

Hello everyone!

Let’s meet another cute amigurumi pattern made by Whimsical Yarn Creations: Poppy the Bunny. We think you love it already. Let’s start!

Materials:

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
MR: magic ring
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
FO: finish off
( ): repeat what is in parenthesis
[ ]: total number of stitches in the
round
sts: stitches

Size: 8.5 inches/21.5 centimeters tall when made with the recommended yarn, hook size and yarn under.

Gauge: Not critical but may affect the amount of yarn used.

Yarn Under: Insert your hook under the top two loops, yarn under, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. This creates an “x” stitch.

You can download the free pattern from here:

When you finish your Poppy the Bunny, we would love to see it! Be sure to tag @whimsicalyarncreations and @hobiumyarns in your photos on Instagram!

#hobiumyarnsblog

Honey the Bee Pattern by Whimsical Yarn Creations

Hello everyone!

Today we brought to you a really cute pattern, Honey the Bee Pattern by Whimsical Yarn Creations. We’re sure that you are going to love it.

Let’s begin!

Materials:

  • Yarn: DK Weight Yarn

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
MR: magic ring
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
FO: finish off
( ): repeat what is in parenthesis
[ ]: total number of stitches in the
round
sts: stitches

Click here to download the free pattern!

When you finish your Honey the Bee, we would love to see it! Be sure to tag @whimsicalyarncreations and @hobiumyarns in your photos on Instagram!

#hobiumyarnsblog

The Raffia Hand Clutch Bag by BrennaAnnHandmade

Happy Tuesday everybody! I’m so excited to be able to share this FREE crochet pattern made in collaboration with HobiumYarns with you all, using their new Akçaylar 100% Paper Yarn

Head’s up! Each skein of this fun yarn is quite large, so could easily make a few of these clutches – the fact that you’re using paper to crochet with is so neat, and makes for a fun “straw-like” texture (perfect for summer projects!)

To close the flap of the clutch, I created a little loop at the top & used a fun little sunflower button (also from HobiumYarns) so it can be closed securely.

  There’s also optional directions to add a wrist strap if you’d like! It’s cute + adds a little extra security to help hold the clutch! 😉

Being this pattern was designed in collaboration with HobiumYarns, I wanted to offer this as a free pattern, but I also have the condensed, inexpensive, ad-free + instant-downloadable PDF pattern available in my shop if you’d like! 🙂

Just click HERE for the inexpensive PDF printable pattern!

Are you ready to get started? Great! Let’s go! 🙂

Materials Needed: 

-1 skein or ball of paper yarn – I used Akçaylar 100% Paper Yarn from HobiumYarns 

-A 5mm crochet hook 

-A pair of scissors 

-A hand sewing needle 

-Any button about ½ inch in width 

-Sewing thread in a color that matches your button 

Abbreviations: 

Ch = chain 

St = stitch 

Sl st = slip stitch  

Sc = single crochet 

Tog = together 

Directions: 

(Base of the clutch) 

Ch 25 

Row 1: Put 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 

Row 2: Put 1 sc in the same st that you just ch 1 from, and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 

(You’ll now be crocheting in the round, by making stitches across as normal, and the turning & crocheting down the side, bottom, & across the other side of the rows you just crocheted, & joining with a sl st to the beginning st of the round.) 


(Body of the clutch) 

Round 1: Ch 1, and put 1 sc in each st across, and around the entire base you just created. Sl st to the top of the beginning st to join the round.  


Rounds 2-15: Ch 1, and put 1 sc in each st around. Sl St to the top of the beginning st to join the round. 

(Flap Closure) 

Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Put 1 sc in the same st you just ch 1 from, and in each st across, for 25 sc total. Ch 1, turn. 

Row 2: Sc2tog, then 1 sc in ea st across the entire row until you have 2 st left, then sc2tog the last 2 st of the row.  


Rows 3-12: Repeat row 2. 

Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sl st across the row (3 st total), then ch 3 & join with a sl st to the 1st st of the row (creating a loop for the button to go through). Cut yarn, and weave in ends. 


 Sew the button on where it matches up with the loop, when the flap is closed on the clutch. 

(Hand Strap) 

Attach hook and yarn to one corner of the top of the clutch. Chain 30, (or more if you’d like your strap longer) and sl st to the st next to the one you just chained from. Ch 1, turn and sc back up & around the strap. Sl st to the beginning chain.  

Cut yarn, and weave in all ends.  


 Ta da! You are finished!  Enjoy your new handmade clutch! 😊 

*Please Note: You may NOT resell/share this pattern or the pictures included, but you MAY sell the finished items made from them, as long as you use your own photos, and give credit to the original designer.   


  Happy making everybody!

~Brenna

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Toddler Crochet Sweater Pattern

Toddler Crochet Sweater Pattern by:

Montaño: Hand-Crafted Crochet

Hello Lovelies,

I am Ivonne from Montaño: Hand- Crafted Crochet aka montanocrochet. I am so excited to share my very first pattern in collaboration with Hobium! Today we are going to learn how to make the, ” Toddler Sweater Pattern.” This sweater is super warm and cozy as the yarn that we are using is from baby wool!!! How amazing is that? The Toddler Sweater Pattern is suitable for beginners, as long as you know basic stitches like, single crochet, double crochet, sewing and are familiar with reading written patterns. If your an advanced crocheter, this pattern is perfect as it has the flexibility to be customized to measurements that you would like to use instead! So, lets get started!

Materials:
6 Skeins Gazzal XL Baby Wool
6 mm Crochet hook
A Crochet Hook or Large Eye Tapestry Needle (For weaving in ends)
A needle and thread to sew on buttons
9 buttons ( ½ inch wide x ½ tall )
Scissors

Note: This sweater is worked in separate pieces that will be sewed together as you go. You will first work the body, two sleeves, and the collar.

Size: This pattern is made for a 9 month old to 2 years old. however, please keep in mind that all children are built and grow differently. If you want to ensure that this piece fits your child please take measurements of your child to ensure fitting is correct.

Gauge: You don’t need a gauge as this cardigan is based off of measurements. If you need to make your item smaller or larger refer to Craft Yarn Council website, as they have the standard measurements for baby, toddler, child and adults sizes. For example, you measure your Childs waist at 20″, you will then make a chain that measures 20″, and proceed to follow the pattern and adjusting to your measurements. You will then measure your Childs wrist, shoulder, shoulder depth, neck, etc.. To ensure your piece is made correctly.

Directions

Chain 63

Row 1: Sc second chain from hook, sc 61 to end of chain. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st. rep from * to end of chain, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), * 1 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next dc. Rep from * until second to last st. Complete your last dc in the “v” located in the ch from the previous row. (refer to picture below).

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, *1dc in next sc, 1 sc in next dc. Rep from * Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until your work from beginning measures 8 ½ inches (21.5 cm). or to your specified measurements.

Right Front Part: Ch 1, sc in same st, *1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st * rep from * for 20 sts. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. Continue this row until it measures 5 ½ inches to 6 inches. Or to your specified measurements.

Note: If you make this part to small (the rows), your cardigan will be short and will not fit around your child’s shoulder. We are essentially making the armhole depth here while simultaneously making the front part of the cardigan.

Back: Join yarn with a sl st in next st, in same st 1 sc, *1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st * for the next 27 sts (if your doing a smaller or larger number this number of its will be different). Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue until it measures 5 ½ to 6 inches. Or your specified measurements. Fasten off.

Left Front Part: join yarn with a sl st in the next st. in same st 1 dc. *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st* rep for next 13 sts (if your doing a smaller or larger number this number of its will be different). Turn. Continue this row until it measures 5 ½ inches to 6 inches. Or your specified measurements.

This is how your piece should look. Three separate sections, left front panel, back, and right front panel.

Sleeve: make 2.

Ch 32, sc in second ch from hook. *1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rep from * until end of ch. join both ends with a sl st so that we can continue pattern in the round. Continue this row until your sleeve measures 14”.

The photograph below is how your sleeves should look like. Additionally, they should measure 14 inches, unless you have decided to make your sleeve shorter.

Note: This length is ment to be able to fold back the sleeve, if you prefer to not fold back the sleeve, just do less rounds until you have the desired length.

Attaching sleeves to body:

Sew both sleeves onto the body. Ensure that the seem is down (under the armpit) and not running on the sides or top.  We do this to hide the seam. You will use the Weave stitch method.

Thread tail into the yarn needle and being to sew at the bottom of the armpit hole.

   

Insert needle on the same side that you just pulled through into the next st pulling through to the next st located on the body.
**Bottom of the front left panel (aka armpit area/under arm )**

 

Repeat this process until you have worked your way around back to the beginning. Make a knot to secure your sewing and weave in the end.
How your piece looks with one sleeve sewed on! Almost halfway done guys!!

This is your piece with two sleeves sewed on. Woohoo!


Count 8 sts from the end of the shoulder or Measure 3 ½ inches from the end of the shoulder and place markers.

Using the weave stitch method to sew the back body part into the front body panel.

Pull thread through and tie a knot so that it does not come undone. Next, you will go through the next st starting from the front panel into the back body panel. Do not pull your thread too tight as this will make your work scrunch up. Very gently pull your thread to tighten slightly. Continue weaving your needle and thread into back and front stitches to create your shoulder width seam up to the marker that you placed.

Good job guys!! Your more than half way done!!

Oversized Collar:

Row 1: Join yarn with sl st in the corner of the left front part. Ch 1, *1 sc, 1 dc * in same st as ch 1, and in each following next st until edge of other side. Turn. ( you are adding two sts into every stitch to create an oversized collar, that way its not too tight around your child’s neck)

Row 2: Ch 1, *1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rep from * continue this row until piece measures 4 ½ inches. Do not fasten off.

Your piece should end at the left front panel. If it does not, create one more row or remove one row so that your work ends on the left front panel. Rotate your piece 90 degrees to the right.

Reason we are doing this is, because we need to create additional rows so that the cardigan is able to close with buttons while overlapping the right front panel.

Your piece should be laying perpendicular to you now, with the left front panel being closest to you.

Elongating the left front panel:

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st , *1 dc in next st, skp next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st, skp next st * rep from * until you reach the end of the row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, *1 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next dc * rep from * until you have reached the row under the collar. Chain 2, turn. We do not want to continue where the collar begins as this will make the collar longer and end up wrapping around the neck.

Row 3: *1 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next dc * rep from * to end of row. Repeat row two more times. Or until desired length to button up to the right panel. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Button Time!!

Note: We do not need to add holes specifically for the buttons as the stich pattern that we are using are able to accommodate the buttons that we are using. If you would like to use bigger buttons, a good way to see if they will work before you sew them on, is to try to fit them in between the dc and sc that we worked. The buttons should be able to slip through easily without stretching the stitches too much. If you would like to add holes specifically for your buttons, On row 4 add 2 chains inbetween the pattern of desired distance apart from each button. Row 5, you will sc all the way through, except on the chains you will sc 3.

Placement of buttons:
My buttons are spaced out every 2 ½ inches

When you get ready to sew on your buttons, one thing I always do is cut scrap yarn and with a hook slide it into the spaces where I want my buttons to go, that way its easier to remember where to place them.

CONGRATULATIONS!! YOUR ALL DONE!! WOOHOO

I know this is a lengthy tutorial on how to make a Toddler Sweater, but I promise you it is worth it! Not only are they rock’n a stylish item, but you get the gratification of making something with your two hands.

Don’t forget to share your photographs of your little ones wearing this awesome sweater, by tagging Hobium on your Instagram photographs.