Multicolored Baby Cardigan Pattern by yldz_orgu_sepetim

Hello!

We translated for you from Turkish a very popular baby cardigan pattern, originally designed by @yldz_orgu_sepetim and published on Orgumodelleri.com.

It is the warmest baby cardigan with color transitions. It is knitted double-stranded with garter stitch.

You can use any baby yarn you want but we highly recommend La Mia Baby Cotton Knitting Yarn.

The sizes are suitable for 1-1.5 years.

You can adapt it to the age you want by increasing or reducing it proportionally in the empiecement.

Let’s begin, shall we?

Materials

Pattern

We start with the double-stranded white yarn.

  1. We’ll start knitting from the hoodie. Cast on 37 stitches and work in garter stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) till you reach to 74 stitches. Double it and sew it up. The part we sew will be the back of the hood.

2) Take 72 stitches from the bottom of the hood and work in garter stitch for a row. Knit 15 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 10 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 14 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit 10 stitches, purl 2 stitches, knit15 stitches, purl 2 stitches.  Purled 2 stitches will be increased from both sides and will be knitted flat.

(There will be 15 stitches for front, 10 stitches for arms, and 14 stitches for back in the final rope, with 2 stitches for increasing.)

3)  When 16 stitches are increased, that is, when 16 garter stitches are complete, the arms are started to be knitted.

Arms

We continue from the hood.

(We break one of the white yarn and tie the blue yarn.)

1) Work in garter stitch for 11 stitches with white-blue yarn.

(We also tear off the other white yarn and tie the blue yarn.)

2) Work in garter stitch for 11 stitches with blue-blue yarn.

(Break one of the blue yarn and tie the black yarn.)

3) Work in garter stitch for 9 stitches with blue-black yarn.

(We also tear off the other blue yarn and tie the black yarn.)

4) Work in garter stitch till you reach 10 stitches with black – black yarns.

Pay attention to make yarn changes in both arms and torso in the same place.

Torso

We continue from the hood.

(We break one of the white yarn and tie the blue yarn.)

1) Work in garter stitch for 11 stitches with white-blue yarn.

(We also tear off the other white yarn and tie the blue yarn.)

2) Work in garter stitch for 11 stitches with blue-blue yarn.

(Break one of the blue yarn and tie the black yarn.)

3) Work in garter stitch for 9 stitches with blue-black yarn.

(We also tear off the other blue yarn and tie the black yarn.)

4) Work in garter stitch till you reach 10 stitches with black – black yarns.

Open two button holes in each row 10 stitches apart. There should be 3 stitches at the beginning and 8 stitches between every stitch.

Sew buttons and pom-poms on our cardigan.

Our cardigan is ready πŸ™‚

I wish all those who will do it the amenities… πŸ™‚

ROCKWOOD SWEATER PATTERN BY MALLOO KNITWEAR

Hello everyone!

Malloo Knitwear has brought a cozy and elegant sweater pattern to you. We’re sure you’re gonna love it.

With a complete seamless construction the Rockwood sweater is one of the easiest you are going to make.

Crocheted from the top down in a spiral, you can choose to make it in a single color or not. Using simple half double crochet stitches and a minimal texture on the yoke you will create a timeless yet modern sweater.

The chunky yarn makes it ideal for the winter months, a cozy wear for all times, plus a super fast project!

Let’s start!

Materials

Yardage

XS 634 yds (580 m)
S 706 yds (646 m)
M 820 yds (750 m)
L 912 yds (834 m)
XL 1018 yds (931 m)
2X 1100 yds (1006 m)
3X 1213 yds (1110 m)
4X 1315 yds (1210 m)
5X 1404 yds (1284 m)

Finished bust measurements:

XS: 28” (71 cm)
S: 32” (81 cm)
M: 36” (91.5 cm)
L: 40” (101.5 cm)
XL: 44” (111.5 cm)
2X: 48” (122 cm)
3X: 52” (132 cm)
4X: 56” (142 cm)
5X: 60” (152 cm)

I would suggest that you choose a size close to your actual bust measurements without much ease if you like a fitted sweater.

Dimensions

SizeBust (laid flat)LengthSleeves (underarm to wrist)
XS14” (35.5 cm)22” (56 cm)16.5” (42 cm)
S16” (40.5 cm)22” (56 cm)17” (43 cm)
M18” (45.75 cm)22.8” (58 cm)17” (43 cm)
L20” (50.75 cm)22.8” (58 cm)17.5” (44.5 cm)
XL22” (55.75 cm)23.6” (60 cm)17.5” (44.5 cm)
2X24” (61 cm)23.6” (60 cm)18” (45.5 cm)
3X26” (66 cm)24.4” (62 cm)18” (45.5 cm)
4X28” (71 cm)24.4” (62 cm)18” (45.5 cm)
5X30” (76 cm)24.4” (62 cm)18” (45.5 cm)

You can easily modify the length of your sweater and/or sleeves by adding or subtracting a few rows. Take the number of rounds given for the body of the sweater (after the color change) and the sleeves as an example and try your sweater on as you go. Make adjustments as needed by following the measurements above or your personal preferences. Keep in mind that the yardage for your size is calculated based on the pattern.

Abbreviations


R: round
Fhdc: foundation half double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
bphdc: back post half double crochet
Inc: increase
dec: decrease
ch(s): chain(s)
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st: slip stitch
sk: skip
FO: fasten off

Gauge

10 sts x 8 rows is 4”x4” (10×10 cm) in hdc

Notes

1. The pattern is written in standard US terms.

2. The pattern is written for size XS and then in parenthesis are sizes (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).

3. At the end of each round in parenthesis is the final stitch count in this order (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).

4. The sweater is worked in a spiral, from the top down. You start with the yoke, separate for body and sleeves, then the body. Attach new yarn at each sleeve and make the sleeves. It is totally seamless.

5. Color A is beige, color B is brown. Choose your own colors or make it in a solid color. About β…“ of the yardage for each size is for color A and β…” is for color B.

Yoke (all sizes)

In color A, leave a yarn tail about 6 inches (15 cm) long

Fhdc 38, (38, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 46, 48), do not join, keep working in a spiral and add a stitch marker at the first st of the next round. Keep moving the marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

R1: hdc in each st around (38, 38, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 46, 48)

R2: bphdc in each st around (38, 38, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 46, 48)

R3-4: hdc in each st around (38, 38, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 46, 48)

R5: first increase round. Check below for the instructions for your size. The last two stitches of the increase round will be bphdc.

XS: hdc 8, 2 hdc in each st around until 8 sts left, hdc 6, bphdc 2 (60)
S: hdc 5, 2 hdc in each st around until 5 sts left, hdc 3, bphdc 2 (66)
M: hdc 4, 2 hdc in each st around until 4 sts left, hdc 2, bphdc 2 (72)
L: hdc 2, 2 hdc in each st around until 2 sts left, bphdc 2 (76)
XL: 2 hdc in each st around, 2 bphdc in last st (84)
2X: 2 hdc in each st around, 2 bphdc in last st (88)
3X: 2 hdc in each st around, 2 bphdc in last st (88)
4X: 2 hdc in each st around, 2 bphdc in last st (92)
5X: 2 hdc in each st around, 2 bphdc in last st (96)

R6: Bphdc in each st around (60, 66, 72, 76, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96)

R7: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (60, 66, 72, 76, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96)

R8: hdc in each st around (60, 66, 72, 76, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96)

R9: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (60, 66, 72, 76, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96)

R10: bphdc in each st around (60, 66, 72, 76, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96)

R11: bphdc 2,hdc in each st around (60, 66, 72, 76, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96)

R12: second increase round. Check below for the instructions for your size.

XS: * hdc 2, inc *, repeat from * to * around (80)
S: 2 hdc in each of the first 6 sts * hdc 2, inc *, repeat from * to * around (92)
M: * hdc 2, inc *, repeat from * to * around (96)
L: * hdc, inc *, repeat from * to * around (114)
XL: * hdc, inc *, repeat from * to * around (126)
2X: * hdc, inc *, repeat from * to * around (132)
3X: * hdc, inc *, repeat from * to * around (132)
4X: * hdc, inc *, repeat from * to * around (138)
5X: * hdc, inc *, repeat from * to * around (144)

R13: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (80, 92, 96, 114, 126, 132, 132, 138, 144)

R14: bphdc in each st around (80, 92, 96, 114, 126, 132, 132, 138, 144)

R15: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (80, 92, 96, 114, 126, 132, 132, 138, 144)

R16: third increase round. Check below for the instructions for your size.

XS: * hdc 3, inc * repeat from * to * around (100)
S: * hdc 3, inc * repeat from * to * around (115)
M: hdc 6, * hdc, inc * repeat from * to * until 6 sts left, hdc 6 (138)
L: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around (152)
XL: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around (168)
2X: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around (176)
3X: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around (176)
4X: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around (184)
5X: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around (192)

R17: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (100, 115, 138, 152, 168, 176, 176, 184, 192)

R18: bphdc in each st around (100, 115, 138, 152, 168, 176, 176, 184, 192)

Size XS

R19: Set up round, add 6 stitches anywhere in this round. Begin with bphdc 2, and then hdc around (106)

R20-24: hdc in each st around (106) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size S

R19: Set up round, add 7 stitches anywhere in this round. Begin with bphdc 2, and then hdc around (122)

R20-24: hdc in each st around (122) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size M

R19: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (138)

R20-25: hdc in each st around (138) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size L

R19: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (152)

R20: hdc in each st around (152)

R21: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (152)

R22: bphdc in each st around (152)

R23: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (152)

R24-27: hdc in each st around (152) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size XL

R19: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (168)

R20: hdc in each st around (168)

R21: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (168)

R22: bphdc in each st around (168)

R23: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (168)

R24-28: hdc in each st around (168) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size 2X

R19: Set up round, add 2 stitches anywhere in this round. Begin with bphdc 2, and then hdc around (178)

R20: hdc in each st around (178)

R21: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (178)

R22: bphdc in each st around (178)

R23: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (178)

R24-28: hdc in each st around (178) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size 3X

R19: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (176)

R20: fourth increase round * hdc 10, inc * repeat from * to * around (192)

R21: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (192)

R22: bphdc in each st around (192)

R23: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (192)

R24-28: hdc in each st around (192) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size 4X

R19: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (184)

R20: fourth increase round * hdc 7, inc * repeat from * to * around (207)

R21: Set up round, add 3 stitches anywhere in this round, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (210)

R22: bphdc in each st around (210)

R23: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (210)

R24-30: hdc in each st around (210) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Size 5X

R19: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (192)

R20: fourth increase round * hdc 5, inc * repeat from * to * around (224)

R21: hdc in each st around, until last two sts, bphdc 2 (224)

R22: bphdc in each st around (224)

R23: bphdc 2, hdc in each st around (224)

R24-30: hdc in each st around (224) Continue with the separate body and sleeves section

Separate body and sleeves

Since we are crocheting in a spiral, the start of every row is misplaced in each round we make. If you like the bphdc lines to be in the middle of your back you will have to make your own adjustments. Specifically, you will have to divide the underlined hdc stitches in a way that better suits that purpose. Which means you may have to do more hdc stitches in the beginning of the round, then work the indicated stitches for the sleeve, the front hdc stitches, the other sleeve and less hdc at the end of the round.

R25 (25, 26, 28, 29, 29, 29, 31, 31): hdc 16 (18, 21, 24, 27, 28, 31, 33,36), ch 4, sk 20 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40), hdc 33 (37, 43, 48, 54, 57, 62, 67, 72), ch 4, sk 20 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40), hdc 17 (19, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36) (74, 82, 94, 104, 116, 122, 132, 142, 152)

R26-29 (26-29, 27-31, 29-33, 30-34, 30-34, 30-34, 32-36, 32-36): hdc in each st around (74, 82, 94, 104, 116, 122, 132, 142, 152)

Change to color B

Because we are working in a spiral there’s no way to do this process completely jogless. I have found a video that describes a process to make it look better. You can watch it here, if you like. For best results do not join the new color in the beginning of the round if it is somewhere very prominent. I chose to β€œhide” it under the armpit.

R30-49 (30-49, 32-53, 34-53, 35-54, 35-54, 35-54, 37-56, 37-56): hdc in each st around (74, 82, 94, 104, 116, 122, 132, 142, 152)

In the final round of every size do not stop at the marker but continue a few stitches (maybe to the side) to find a good place to stop. The reason to do that is again to hide the jog as best as possible. Continue with the final round.

R50 (50, 54, 54, 55, 55, 55, 56, 56): sl st loosely in each st around. FO

Sleeves

Attach color A at any unworked stitch of the sleeve. I prefer the center of the armpit where I also try to place all my decreases. Keep in mind that in order to avoid holes you may have to make a fake decrease or an actual decrease to achieve the correct number of stitches.

You will again follow the instructions for the jogless change of color and for the final row of the body as described above.

XS

R1: hdc around (24) do not join, work in a spiral

R2-4: hdc around (24)

R5: dec, hdc around (23)

R6: hdc around (23)

Change to color B

R7-9: hdc around (23)

R10: dec, hdc around (22)

R11-14: hdc around (22)

R15: dec, hdc around (21)

R16-19: hdc around (21)

R20: dec, hdc around (20)

R21-24: hdc around (20)

R25: dec, hdc around (19)

R26-29: hdc around (19)

R30: dec, hdc around (18)

R31-33: hdc around (18)

R34: sl st in each st around, FO, repeat the same for the other sleeve

S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X

You will change color for size S at R7, M, L, XL, 2X and 3X at R8

R1: hdc around (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) do not join, work in a spiral

R2-3: hdc around (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38)

R4: dec, hdc around (27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37)

R5-7: hdc around (27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37)

R8: dec, hdc around (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36)

R9-11: hdc around (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36)

R12: dec, hdc around (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35)

R13-15: hdc around (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35)

R16: dec, hdc around (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34)

R17-19: hdc around (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34)

R20: dec, hdc around (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33)

R21-23: hdc around (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33)

R24: dec, hdc around (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)

R25-27: hdc around (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32)

R28: dec, hdc around (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31)

R29-31: hdc around (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31)

R32: dec, hdc around (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30)

Sizes S and M stop at R34, L and XL at R35, 2X and 3X at R36

R33-34: hdc around (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30)

Final round for all sizes: sl st loosely around, FO, repeat the same for the other sleeve.

4X, 5X

R1: hdc around (42, 44) do not join, work in a spiral

R2: hdc around (42, 44)

R3: dec, hdc around (41, 43)

R4-6: hdc around (41, 43)

R7: dec, hdc around (40, 42)

Change to color B

R8-9: hdc around (40, 42)

R10: dec, hdc around (39, 41)

R11-12: hdc around (39, 41)

R13: dec, hdc around (38, 40)

R14-16: hdc around (38, 40)

R17: dec, hdc around (37, 39)

R18-19: hdc around (37, 39)

R20: dec, hdc around (36, 38)

R21-22: hdc around (36, 38)

R23: dec, hdc around (35, 37)

R24-26: hdc around (35, 37)

R27: dec, hdc around (34, 36)

R28-29: hdc around (34, 36)

R30: dec, hdc around (33, 35)

R31-32: hdc around (33, 35)

R33: dec, hdc around (32, 34)

R34: hdc around (32, 34)

R35: sl st loosely around, FO, repeat the same for the other sleeve.

Finishing touches

Use the yarn tail from the foundation row to sew the gap that is formed between the foundation round and R1. Weave in all ends.

That’s it! You are all done!

You can follow and tag me on Instagram @malloo.knitwear, and don’t forget to use the #malloomakers so I can see your projects.