Hi, I’m Tonja the designer behind Pink Plumeria Maui. I love designing crochet bags. I wanted to create a bag that was sturdy and fashionable for everyday use. I combined 2 strands of yarn for extra sturdiness and use a basket weave stitch for texture.
I choose to use purse handles as I wanted extra sturdiness and I love how the overall look turned out. This bag can hold my yarn, books or both and I’m excited to put it to use.
Hello new friends! I am here
today to share with you my latest design, the York sweater! It is the very
first crochet garment I made that covers 9 sizes! Yeah, you heard me right.
From size XS to 5X, I think I have everybody covered.
It is an easy crochet sweater,
suitable for an advanced beginner or higher. I designed it with women in mind
but it turns out, men love it, too! With a 3”-5” positive ease you can best
choose your size from the chart below.
I used the amazing La Mia
Natural Wool, a 100% wool yarn that doesn’t feel nothing like the scratchy wool
you have in mind. It comes in 6 natural shades and I definitely recommend that
you should give it a try.
XS: 5 skeins or 930-970 m (1017-1060 yds)
S: 6 skeins or 1050-1090 m (1148-1192 yds)
M: 6 skeins or 1125-1165 m (1230-1275 yds)
L: 7 skeins or 1260-1300 m (1377-1421 yds)
XL: 7 skeins or 1380-1420 m (1509-1552 yds)
2X: 8 skeins or 1550-1590 m (1695-1738 yds)
3X: 9 skeins or 1660-1700 m (1815-1859
yds)
4X: 10 skeins or 1820-1860 m (1990-2034
yds)
5X: 10 skeins or 1890-1930 m (2066-2110 yds)
Keep in mind that this
sweater is designed with 3”-5” positive ease before choosing your size.
Abbreviations
R: row
Fdc: Foundation double crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
dc2tog: double crochet 2 together
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
st(s): stitch(es)
blo: back loop only
bptr: back post treble crochet
fptr: front post treble crochet
yo-sl st: yarn over slip stitch
sk: skip
FO: fasten off
PM: place marker
Gauge
14 sts and 8 rows is 4
inches in dc
Notes
1. Read all the pattern
before you begin crocheting.
2. The pattern is written in US terms.
3. The pattern is written for size XS and then following in parenthesis are
sizes (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
4. The chain at the beginning of every row does not count as a stitch.
Special stitches
yo-sl st: yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on your hook.
Back panel
R1: Fdc 57 (65, 71, 79, 85, 93, 99, 107, 113), ch 2, turn
R2: dc 28 (32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56), bptr, PM, dc 28 (32, 35, 39, 42,
46, 49, 53, 56) ch 2, turn (for all next repeats dc until post st, bptr, dc
until the end of the row)
R3: dc until post st, fptr, dc until the end of the row, ch 2, turn
XS R4-44: repeat rows 2 and 3
R45: dc 11, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 11 (57) FO
PM on R34 on each side
S R4-33: repeat rows 2 and 3
R34: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (63) PM on each side
R35: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (61)
R36: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (59)
R37-45: repeat rows 3 and 2
R46: dc 12, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 12 (59) FO
M R4-32: repeat rows 2 and 3
R33: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (69) PM on each side
R34: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (67)
R35: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (65)
R36: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (63)
R37-45: repeat rows 3 and 2
R46: dc 14, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 14 (63) FO
L R4-32: repeat rows 2 and 3
R33: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (77) PM on each side
R34: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (75)
R35: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (73)
R36: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (71)
R37: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (69)
R38: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (67)
R39-46: repeat rows 3 and 2
R47: dc 16, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 16 (67) FO
XL R4-31: repeat rows 2 and 3
R32: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (83) PM on each side
R33: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (81)
R34: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (79)
R35: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (77)
R36: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (75)
R37: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (73)
R38: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (71)
R39: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (69)
R40-46: repeat rows 2 and 3
R47: dc 17, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 17 (69) FO
2X R4-31: repeat rows 2 and 3
R32: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (91) PM on each side
R33: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (89)
R34: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn(87)
R35: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (85)
R36: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (83)
R37: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (81)
R38: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (79)
R39: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (77)
R40: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (75)
R41: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (73)
R42: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (71)
R43-47: repeat rows 3 and 2
R48: dc 18, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 18 (71) FO
3X R4-30: repeat rows 2 and 3
R31: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (97) PM on each side
R32: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (95)
R33: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (93)
R34: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (91)
R35: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (89)
R36: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (87)
R37: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (85)
R38: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (83)
R39: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (81)
R40: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (79)
R41: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (77)
R42: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (75)
R43: dc2tog, dc until post st, fptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (73)
R44: dc2tog, dc until post st, bptr, dc until 2 sts to the end, dc2tog, ch 2,
turn (71)
R45-46: repeat rows 3 and 2
R48: dc 18, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 18 (71) FO
4X R4-30: repeat rows 2 and 3
R31: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (103) PM on each side
R32: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (99)
R33: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (95)
R34: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (91)
R35: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (87)
R36: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (83)
R37: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (79)
R38: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (75)
R39: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (73)
R40-48: repeat rows 2 and 3
R49: dc 19, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 19 (73) FO
5X R4-31: repeat rows 2 and 3
R32: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (109) PM on each side
R33: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (105)
R34: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (101)
R35: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (97)
R36: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (93)
R37: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (89)
R38: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (85)
R39: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (81)
R40: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, bptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (77)
R41: dc2tog (x2), dc until post st, fptr, dc until 4 sts to the end, dc2tog
(x2), ch 2, turn (73)
R42-48: repeat rows 2 and 3
R49: dc 19, hdc, sc, sl st 31, sc, hdc, dc 19 (73) FO
All sizes
Ribbing set up row:
Attach yarn at the
bottom of the panel and work * sc 2, sc2tog *. Repeat from * to * across. It
doesn’t really matter if you end with a sc or a decrease. We are just trying to
reduce the stitches for the ribbing.
Ribbing:
R1: ch 8, yo-sl st in second chain from the hook and in all chains, sl st in next 2 stitches of the set up row, ch 1, turn (7) R2: sk first 2 sl sts, yo-sl in blo in all sts, ch 1, turn (7) R3: yo-sl st in blo in all sts, sl st in next 2 stitches of the set up row, ch 1, turn (7) R4-…: repeat rows 2 and 3 until the end.
XS
R41: dc 16, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (17)
R42: dc2tog, dc 15, ch 2, turn (16)
R43: dc 14, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (15)
R44: dc2tog, dc 13, ch 2, turn (14)
R45: dc 12,dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (13)
S
R42: dc 17, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (18)
R43: dc2tog, dc 16, ch 2, turn (17)
R44: dc 15, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (16)
R45: dc2tog, dc 14, ch 2, turn (15)
R46: dc 13, dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (14)
M
R42: dc 19, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (20)
R43: dc2tog, dc 18, ch 2, turn (19)
R44: dc 17, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (18)
R45: dc2tog, dc 16, ch 2, turn (17)
R46: dc 15, dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (16)
L
R43: dc 21, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (22)
R44: dc2tog, dc 20, ch 2, turn (21)
R45: dc 19, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (20)
R46: dc2tog, dc 18, ch 2, turn (19)
R47: dc 17, dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (18)
XL
R43: dc 22, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (23)
R44: dc2tog, dc 21, ch 2, turn (22)
R45: dc 20, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (21)
R46: dc2tog, dc 19, ch 2, turn (20)
R47: dc 18, dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (19)
2X-3X
R44: dc 23, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (24)
R45: dc2tog, dc 22, ch 2, turn (23)
R46: dc 21, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (22)
R47: dc2tog, dc 20, ch 2, turn (21)
R48: dc 19, dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (20)
4X-5X
R45: dc 24, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (25)
R46: dc2tog, dc 23, ch 2, turn (24)
R47: dc 22, dc2tog, ch 2, turn (23)
R48: dc2tog, dc 21, ch 2, turn (22)
R49: dc 20, dc2tog FO and leave long tail for sewing (21)
Turn your project and work the same rows for your size, at the opposite side, to form the neckline.
All sizes
Work ribbing set up row and ribbing at the bottom of the front panel, the same
way as the back panel.
Place both panels with
right sides facing each other.
Sew from R1 (not the
ribbing) until the row with the marker. Then sew the shoulder seam. The last
stitch you are going to sew before the neckline is the single crochet.
Neckline
ribbing set up row
With your sweater’s
right side facing up, attach yarn near the shoulder seam. Work * sc 2, sc2tog *
around the neckline, sl st in the first sc to join. It doesn’t really matter if
you end with a sc or a decrease. We are just trying to reduce the stitches for
the ribbing.
Neckline
ribbing
R1: ch 7, yo-sl st in second chain from the hook and in all chains, sl st in
next 2 stitches of the set up row, ch 1, turn (6)
R2: sk first 2 sl sts, yo-sl in blo in all sts, ch 1, turn (6)
R3: yo-sl st in blo in all sts, sl st in next 2 stitches of the set up row, ch
1, turn (6)
R4-…: repeat rows 2 and 3 round the neckline, until you reach the first row.
Fasten off and sew the ribbing.
Sleeves
R1: Fdc 48, (50, 52, 56, 62, 68, 74, 78, 78), ch 2, turn
R2-4: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R5: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
R6-8: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R9: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
R10-12: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R13: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
R14-16: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R17: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
R18-20: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R21: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
R22-24: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R25: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
R26-28: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn
R29: dc2tog, dc until 2 sts before the end, dc2tog, ch 2, turn
Important note for all sizes: At the end of the sleeve we will have a
set up row with decreases, again. It doesn’t really matter if you end with a dc
or a decrease. We are just trying to reduce the stitches for the ribbing.
Continue with ribbing (located at the end of all sleeve sizes).
XS
R30-32: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (34)
R33: * dc, dc2tog* repeat from * to * across
S
R30-33: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (36)
R34: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
M
R30-33: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (38)
R34: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
L
R30-34: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (42)
R35: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
XL
R30-34: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (48)
R35: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
2X R30-35: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (54)
R36: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
3X
R30-35: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (60)
R36: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
4X-5X
30-36: dc in each st across, ch 2, turn (64)
R37: * dc, dc2tog * repeat from * to * across
Sleeve
ribbing for all sizes
R1: ch 11, yo-sl st in
second chain from the hook and in all chains, sl st in next 2 stitches of the
last sleeve row, ch 1, turn (10)
R2: sk first 2 sl sts,
yo-sl in blo in all sts, ch 1, turn (10)
R3: yo-sl st in blo in
all sts, sl st in next 2 stitches of the last sleeve row, ch 1, turn (10)
R4-…: repeat rows 2 and
3 across the sleeve.
Fasten off and leave a
really long tail for sewing the sleeve.
Repeat the process for
the second sleeve. The pattern is exactly the same. Turn your sweater inside
out and sew the sleeves in the armhole openings.
Two sweet little ghosts just in time for Halloween. You can hang them in a window (like my boy has done) or put them over battery candels, perhaps use them as egg warmers 😀 They can be very useful around the house.
The pattern can be used with any yarn but I have chosen to use Etrofil Cotton Lux and a 3 mm hook. It’s a smaller hook then I’d normally use with this yarn but I wanted it to be tight and be able to stand up. I hope you enjoy the pattern.
This vintage inspired dress is so simple in design, yet has lots of beautiful details. What makes the dress vintage? The color and exclusive pattern, pearls and beads, collar and lots of details on it, bow tied ribbons, flower… lot’s of flowers. And of course vintage is always handmade.
The yarn is Altınbaşak Maxi from @hobiumyarns and it is so perfect for this kind of dress, the beautiful color and shine of high quality natural cotton makes the dress very elegant and comfortable to wear.
I don’t know about you, but when I think of fall and crochet, the first thing that comes to my mind is cables! So when thinking about this design I knew I had to incorporate cables in some way to represent my love for fall!
I designed the Triple Cable Cowl using the La Mia Diamond because I knew I wanted a thicker yarn that was going to give good stitch definition and also give a sense of warmth, but still be able to be worn when it wasn’t freezing outside.
The yarn is very soft and easy to work with, with a drape and sheen that makes this project pop, with plenty of great colors for the holiday season! I also love that you can carry on this project and make it as long and as cozy as you want!
