The Ribbed Cotton Crochet Placemat Pattern by BrennaAnnHandmade

Hi everyone, Brenna from BrennaAnnHandmade here with another FREE tutorial made in collaboration with HobiumYarns! For this DIY, we’re going to be using the super soft La Mia Baby Cotton yarn from  to create this practical & simple, “Ribbed Cotton Crochet Placemat Pattern”. Are you ready to get started? Great! Let’s go! 😉

*Each placemat measures 11.5″ x 16″ (makes 2)

Materials Needed:

3 Skeins of  La Mia Baby Cotton yarn (makes 2 placemats)

A 4mm Crochet Hook

A pair of Scissors

(optional) A Tapestry Needle to help weave in ends

 

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch

hdc = half double crochet

 

Directions:

Row 1: Ch 55, and put 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from your crochet hook, and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Put 1 hdc in the front 2 loops of the 1st hdc from the previous row. (see photos for reference)

Repeat from * in each st across the entire row, except the last st. When you reach the end of the row, put 1 regular hdc in the last st. Ch 1, turn.

Rows 3-64: Repeat row 2. Cut yarn, finish off, and weave in all ends.

*Repeat rows 1-64 once more to create a matching placemat.

You’re all finished, enjoy your brand new set of handmade placemats! 😉

Brenna Ann is the designer and maker behind BrennaAnnHandmade. She crochets & knits cozy pieces of knitwear and accessories at her handmade shop on Etsy. She also has a blog, YouTube channel, and shares daily behind-the-scenes photos of her handmade work on Instagram @BrennaAnnHandmade

The Natural Jute Twine Tote Bag Crochet Pattern by BrennaAnnHandmade

Hi everyone, Brenna from BrennaAnnHandmade here! 🙂 I can’t wait to share my 1st FREE DIY Crochet Pattern for the month of May, and show you all how to create this sturdy & eco-friendly, Natural Jute Twine Tote Bag – perfect for spring / summer! Let’s get started! 😉

To view the video tutorial, visit my YouTube channel HERE or continue below for the full FREE written pattern:

Finished Dimentions: approximately 15″ x 17″

Materials needed:

6 Balls La Mia Natural Jute Twine from Hobiumyarns

A US L size 8mm crochet hook

A pair of scissors

 

Abbreviations:

Ch = chain
sc = single crochet
St = stitch
Sl st = slip stitch

 

*NOTE: Entire bag is created by crocheting 2 strands of twine at the same time throughout the entire pattern.*

 

Directions:

Round 1: Ch 40, and put 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook & in each ch across.

Next, put 2 more sc into the ending sc ch as shown, and then continue around by putting 1 sc on the bottom of each sc you just completed, joining with a sl st to complete the round.

Round 2: Ch 1, and put 1 sc into the same st the you just sl st into, and in each st around. To finish the round, put 1 sl st into the top of the 1st st of the round to join.

Rounds 3-37: Repeat round 2.

To Create Handles:

Round 38: Sc 13,

(ch 14, sk 14 st),

sc 26, (ch 14, sk 14 st), sc 13. Join with a sl st to connect round.

Round 39: Repeat round 2 by ch 1, and then putting 1 sc in each st around as shown. Join with a sl st to connect round. Cut yarn & weave in all ends.

You’re all finished! Enjoy your new handmade, Natural Jute Twine Tote Bag! 🙂

Brenna Ann is the designer and maker behind BrennaAnnHandmade. She crochets & knits cozy pieces of knitwear and accessories at her handmade shop on Etsy. She also has a blog, YouTube channel, and shares daily behind-the-scenes photos of her handmade work on Instagram @BrennaAnnHandmade.

Henry the frog

Henry the frog will be approx. 12 inches tall from hat to toe when using the recommended yarn and hook. Feel free to experiment with different yarns and hook sizes but please be aware this will change Henry’s size.

 

Materials needed:

2.5mm crochet hook

1 ball of La Mia cottony yarn in green P12

Very small amount of La Mia cottony in black

Tiny scrap of light pink yarn for the cheeks

Pink embroidery cotton for the mouth

9mm toy safety eyes (you could embroider these)

Yarn needle

Scissors

Toy stuffing

Stitch marker (scrap of yarn)

 

ABBREVIATIONS

Sc – Single crochet

Tc- treble crochet

Inc – increase

Sc-inc – single crochet increase

Sc-dec – single crochet invisible decrease

St – stitch

Ch – chain

Rep – repeat

Sl st – slip stitch

BLO – back loops only

Yo – yarn over

 

Stitches and techniques used.

 

Slip stitch

Insert hook in next st, yo and draw through all loops.

Single crochet

Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, draw through both loops

on hook.

Single crochet Invisible decrease [ sc- dec]

Please note that when making the invisible decrease you will be working in the front loops only of your two stitches.

Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. Do not yarn over and pull up yarn as you would in a traditional decrease. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch. You will need to turn the tip of your crochet hook downward to do this. Then swing your crochet hook up, and under the front loop of the 2nd stitch. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops on your crochet hook, leaving 2 loops on your hook. Then yarn over again and pull yarn through the last 2 loops on your crochet hook.

Magic adjustable ring

First make a loop with your yarn leaving 3″ long tail. Insert hook in centre of loop made, yo and draw up loop. YO, pull through to make your first chain. (Do not count this as your first sc) Continue to crochet over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc for your first round. For example, if the pattern calls for 6 scs, then sc 6 times into the ring. (Insert hook into the center of the ring and draw up loop, YO and draw through both loops.)  When you’re finished, pull the tail to close the ring.

 

 

Always move your stitch marker up at the end of each row as you will be working in

continuous rounds. Stitch count is in ( ) at the end of each row.

 

HEAD

Using Green yarn

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker  (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep  (12)

Round 3. [ sc x1, sc-inc ] rep (18)

Round 4. [ sc x 2, sc-inc ] rep (24)

Round 5. [ sc x  3, sc- inc ] rep (30)

Round 6, [ sc x 4, sc-inc ] rep   (36)

Round 7. [ sc x 5, sc-inc ] rep   (42)

Round 8. [ sc x 6, sc-inc ] rep   (48)

Rounds 9-22. Sc in each st around   (48)

Round 23. [ sc x 6, sc-dec ]   (42)

Round 24. [ sc x 5, sc-dec ] rep   (36)

Round 25. [ sc x 4, sc-dec ] rep   (30)

Begin to stuff and keep adding stuffing as you close the head.

Round 26. [ sc x 3, sc-dec ] rep   (24)

Round 27. [ sc x 2, sc-dec ] rep   (18)

Round 28. [ sc x 1, sc-dec ] rep   (12)

Round 29. [ sc-dec ] rep   (6)

Weave through the last 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole.

 

 

 

EYES X2

Using green yarn

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker  (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep  (12)

Round 3. [ sc x 2, sc-inc ] rep   (16)

Rounds 4-6. Sc in each st around   (16)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave an extra long tail.

Place the safety eyes between rows 4-5 and secure the washers to the stems.

Add a little bit of stuffing to each eye and then pin them in place on the top of the frogs head, approx. 6 rows either side of the centre. Use the yarn tails to sew them to the head. Keeping the yarn attached make 3 stitches over over the top of the safety eyes to make the eye lids. (see pictures below) To finish off take the yarn tails through to the back of the head and bring them both out at the same position, make a double knot then hide the remainder of the tails inside the head.

CHEEKS X2

Using light pink yarn scraps

8 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and sl st into the first st to finish off.

Thread the yarn tail onto the needle and use it to keep the cheek in place by taking the tail through to the back of the head. Do the same with for both cheeks so that both tails are coming out at the same position at the back of the head.

Now take a long length of some slightly darker pink embroidery cotton and make obvious stitches around each cheek to secure them in place while also creating a decorative effect. Leave a beginning tail of cotton hanging out just next to the first cheek.

 

 

After you have secured both cheeks use the same piece of cotton to make the mouth, go from one cheek across to the other, then take your needle through the head and bring it out in the middle of the smile, make a small stitch over the thread of the mouth to bring it down slightly to make a smile. Take your thread back to the starting position (where you left the beginning tail hanging out) Make a double knot and hide the tails inside the head.

 

 

 

BODY

Using green yarn

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker  (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep  (12)

Round 3. [ sc x1, sc-inc ] rep (18)

Round 4. [ sc x 2, sc-inc ] rep (24)

Round 5. [ sc x  3, sc- inc ] rep (30)

Round 6, [ sc x 4, sc-inc ] rep   (36)

Round 7. [ sc x 5, sc-inc ] rep   (42)

Rounds 8-15. Sc in each st around

Round 16. [ sc x 5, sc-dec ] rep   (36)

Rounds 17-18. Sc in each st around   (36)

Round 19. [ sc x 4, sc-dec ] rep   (30)

Rounds 20-21. Sc in each st around   (30)

Round 22. [ sc x 3, sc-dec ] rep   (24)

Rounds 23-24. Sc in each st around   (24)

Round 25. [ sc x 2, sc-dec ] rep   (18)

Rounds 26-27. Sc in each st around   (18)

Sl st into the next st to finish off. Leave a long tail. Stuff the body well and then use the tail to sew the head to the body.

LEGS X2

Using green yarn

Round 1. 6sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker   (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep   (12)

Rounds 3-8. Sc in each st around   (12)

Round 9. [ sc x 2, sc-dec ] rep   (9)

Rounds 10-22. Sc in each st around   (9)

Sl st into the next st to finish off, leave a very long tail. Stuff the bottom part of the leg only (the wider part).

FEET X2

Using green yarn

Round 1. 6sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker   (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep   (12)

Rounds 3-7. Sc in each st around   (12)

Round 8. [ sc x 1. Sc-inc ] rep   (18)

Rounds 9-12. Sc in each st around   (18)

Flatten the foot and sc through both sets of stitches to close. Weave in end.

Sew the feet to the bottom of the legs.

Take the needle through the leg to make a knee. Fold the leg and make a couple of stitches along the fold.

 

Then take the needle through the leg again and bring it out at the wider, top part of the leg (where its stuffed). Sew the legs to the body so they are in a sitting position. (see pictures for reference) Making sure to sew the bottom part of the leg to the body also.

    

 

ARMS X2

Using green yarn

Round 1. 8 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker   (8)

Rounds 2-11. Sc in each st around   (8)

Flatten the top of the arm and sc through both sets of stitches to close. Leave a long tail and sew the arms to the body.

HAT

Using Black yarn

Round 1. 6 sc in the magic circle, tighten the loop and place marker  (6)

Round 2. [ sc-inc ] rep  (12)

Round 3. [ sc x1, sc-inc ] rep (18)

Round 4. [ sc x 2, sc-inc ] rep (24)

Round 5. BLO sc in each st around   (24)

Round 6-12. (both loops) sc in each st around

Round 13. FLO [ sc x 1, sc-inc ] rep   (36)

Round 14. (both loops) sc in each st around   (36)

Sl st into the next st to finish off. Leave a long tail and sew the hat to the top of the head at a slight angle.

 

BOW

Using black yarn

Make a magic circle and work all of the following stitches into it.

Ch 4, tr x 5, ch 4, sl st into the circle, ch 4, tr x 5, ch 4, sl st into the circle

Pull the loop closed and leave a long tail. Wrap the tail around the middle of the bow a few times then sew the bow to the frogs neck.

 

 

I hope you enjoyed making Henry!

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